Two short Winter days and a sunny short morning was way too short to discover all that this Scandinavian city has to offer. So, the city is already on my return-to-list. Most of my Stockholm time I spent in museums and wondering through the medieval streets soaking up history and city buzz at the same time.
Stockholm welcomed me when the sun had set a while, with rusing traffic and glistering lights on the waters. I stayed at the HI hostel AF Chapman on Skeppsholmen which gave me the best views of the city every morning and evening. It was a short twenty minute walk from the Central Station. although you can also take bus 65 or half the walking distance by taking the subway (T-bana) to Kungstragarden. It's hard to miss, the historic ship originally built in England in 1888. It's hard to miss, but I walked passed the ship and went into the building on the land. Which has some royal roots when it was built in 1785 to store fire wood of the Royal Palace, just across the water before it was rebuilt to become a home quatier of navy craftsman somewhere at the beginning of the 19th century. Now both the ship and this old lodging home welcome visitors from all over the world. The cheapest room is the 10 bed dorm in which I stayed, but I'm sure the rooms at the ship are more stunning since it has clear views on Gamla Stan (Old Town, my favorite part of the city) and hip, trendy and higher up Sodormalm.
My first full day was filled with museums and sight seeing with the 24-hour Stockholm Card for 495 SEK (about 55 Euro). I would say I used my card pretty well. I visited five museums (that would have costed me 550 SEK on entrance alone). My second day I uses wondering through the medieval city heart (and getting sick in the afternoon).
1. Nordiska Museet
Address: Djurgårdsvägen 6-16
Transport: Busses: 44, 69 and 76, Underground: Karlaplan (red line to Ropsten), Tram 7: Nordiska Museet/Vasa museet (tram departs from Sergels Torg), Ferry service from Slussen (and from Nybroplan in Summer)
Opening hours: Mon.-Sun. 10–17 From Sep. to May Wed. 10-20
Admission: 100 SEK, Children and under 19 free.
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website.
The Nordiska Museet Nordic Museum) was a fitting first museum to visit as an introduction to Swedish culture on my first trip to Sweden.
Walking into the huge and high central hall of the museem feels like walking into a cathedral. Well, you could say a cathedral of Swedish culture from the 16th century on. From Swedish folk art and traditions to almost real life table settings, toys and the fascinating history, culture and future views of the Sami, the indigenous tribe. Small and larger exhibitions are spread over three floors around the central hall.
I found that the audiotour I did really made the exhibitions come alive.
2. Vasamuseet
Address: Galärvarvsvägen 14, Djurgården
Transport: Busses: 44 (Nordiska Museet/Vasamuseet) 69, 76 (Djurgårdsbron), Underground: Karlaplan (red line to Ropsten), Tram 7: Nordiska Museet/Vasa museet (tram departs from Sergels Torg), Ferry service from Slussen (and from Nybroplan in Summer)
Opening hours: Sept-May Mon.-Sun. 10–17, Wed. 10-20, June-Aug 8.30-18
Admission: 130 SEK, Students 100 SEK Children and under 18 free.
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website
Barely 1300 meters on her first voyage this majestic ship sank (mainly due to a lack of stability). It never got to see the world, but tourists from all over the world come to visit her in her modern harbor, the museum built around the ship. I would say it is worth all the buzz and recommendations. You feel tiny in front of this ship reconstructed with 98% original material from the salvage in 1961. I started with the film screening about the Vasa, then made my way through the various exhibitions. Most interesting to me were the ones about the people who were on the ship on that unfaithful day. The 'Face to Face' exhibition (found on the 2nd level) in particular. The stories bones can tell us about people's life a few centuries ago, I think is fascinating. None of the found skelletons were ever identified, but they were given names according to the Swedish letter-naming system. This results in stories of just a few sentences that read like you get to know a real person. The few life like reconstructed faces look back at you with surprising warm looks on their faces.
3. Millesgården
Address: Herserudsvägen 32, Lidingö
Transport: Underground: red line to Ropsten and then bus number 201, 202, 204, 205, 206 to Torsviks torg. Follow the signs from there on.
Opening hours: May - Sep. Daily 11 - 17, Oct - Apr. Tues - Sun 11 - 17
Admission: 100 SEK, Students 80 SEK Children and under 19 free.
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website
This museum is a bit off route, but so worth the little trip (it takes about 30 to 40 minutes from the city center). Usually I'm more of a 2D-art lover. But somehow when I saw a picture of a sculputure of Carl Milles on my screen while researching and planning on my trip, I had to go. Something in his works touches me. Even in a drizzy rain and without the fountains turned on, the sculpture garden was wonderful. The house, actually felt like a house. I could imagine people living their lives there, looking out of the window through the garden on to the waterfront view.
4. Stockholm Stadsmuseet
Address: Ryssgården, Slussen
Transport: Underground: all Red and green metro lines stop at Slussen, buses 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76 stop at Slussen.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 11–17, Thursday 11.00–20.00, Monday closed
Admission: 100 SEK, Children and under 19 free. The ticket is also valid for the Museum of Medieval Stockholm. So, you're given a two for one price here!
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website.
This little museum, right next to the Underground station of Slussen, houses the history of Stockholm city from 1000 BC to our 21st century and even the future visions given by today's children's generation. Although it is quite a small museum, it's very informative and gives a good overview on how much this city has grown.
5. Fotografiska
Address: Stadsgårdshamnen 22, Södermalm
Transport: Underground: all Red and green metro lines stop at Slussen exit at the bus terminal, buses 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 76 stop at Slussen. Walk past the busterminal, cross the street, take a right and continue walking straight on (past the Birka Cruises terminal), the next building you run into is Fotografiska.
Opening hours: Sun - Wed 9 - 21, Thur - Sat 9 - 22
Admission: 120 SEK, Students 90 SEK, Children under 12 free.
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website.
This was one of the few museums with evening hours when I visited during low season. I couldn't have asked for a better ending of the day when I was at the café with a cuppa tea paired with a cinnamon roll, a view on Stockholm at night and great live music from Szeps O'Hoj.
There were some interesting and brutally honest and confrontating exhibitions at my time of visit. Including works from Peter Hugo and the exhibition Farming out of Poverty.
6. Dansa Museet
Address: Drottninggatan 17, Norrmalm
Transport: Underground: T-Centrale or blue line, Kungsträdgården. Busses: 3,52, 53, 56, 59, 62. 65 and 69. And tram 7 (stop at Kungsträdgården).
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 11-17
Admission: 80 SEK, Students 60 SEK, up to 19 years old free.
Up to date information on admission fees, opening hours and exhibitions on the website
This museum I had planned on going on my fisrt day, but I didn't make it before five. So, I went the next day. Dance is a weak spot of mine, since I've danced for 8 years. I think this was the smallest museum I went to, but it had two exhibition spaces filled from ground to ceiling with history of dance. Not just in sights, but also in sounds by pulling drawers or putting on headphones. It felt like a world trip visiting costume depots and music archives.
Gamla stan
It was around 1254 that Stockholm started to grow from the old town, gamla stan. Despite the traces of modern life that dot the streets, you can make up a vivid image of what the narrow cobble stoned streets looked like in the medieval times. Eye catcher of the Island Is Kungliga slottet. Built In 1754 in italian style, after an fire destroyed the king's palace in 1697. I had just missed out on the changing of guard though. Right next to the palace is Storkyrkan. This church from 1279 Is a quiet place in a bustling city.
christmas is comming closer and the city was getting in the mood. Allthough, to catch Stockholm in full blown christmas atmosphere, I should have come a week or two later.
Gettining the most out of Stockholm practical and money saver tips:
Now, I agree that 5 museums is a lot. But Dansa Museet and the Stadsmuseet for example were quite small.
Museums (and shops and other sights as well) in Stockholm have opening times that differ in Summer/Winter seasons (or even months). Most museums open around 10AM or 11AM and close around 5PM or 6 PM. So, I used time as effectivly as possible.
The Stockholm card at first sight can look expensive and overpriced. The 24-hour card I used was 495SEK (around 55 euro). Usually I avoid tourist cards, because they can be overpriced. But Stockholm is an expensive city. So I did some research and some math. Before I went, I had three museums on my wishlist (Vasa Museet, Millesgården and Dansa Museet). That resulted in an estimated coast of 410 SEK for the day (including public transport). For just a bit more, this card gave me free public transport and the opportunity to visit an extra museum or two.
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